TMB's super happy fun Eva model-building adventures
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- Squigsquasher
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Thanks everyone!
Shamsiel-kun, well the decals is an assumption based on the fact that the reference photos for the kits both have numbers on the chest and Yui has "BATTERY" on the left shoulder, "EVA-00" on the blue things on the left thigh as well as on the back of the calfs.
Shamsiel-kun, well the decals is an assumption based on the fact that the reference photos for the kits both have numbers on the chest and Yui has "BATTERY" on the left shoulder, "EVA-00" on the blue things on the left thigh as well as on the back of the calfs.
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- Shamsiel-kun
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- TMBounty_Hunter
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- TMBounty_Hunter
- Hachigouki is my waifu
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- Joined: Nov 08, 2008
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Starting sometime next week things should get updated more regularly and with more variety.
For now things are unavoidably tedious.
I've mentioned before I've gotten some aftermarket tracks for the Type-76 because the stock ones are crummy. The only problem is, only normal tracks are available:
http://www.modelkasten.com/modelkasten/sk/sk-52.html
But, one would assume that any tank stationed in or around a fortress city would be equipped with rubber padded ones to avoid tearing up all those nice road, right? Based on that assumption I decided to go on a completely unnecessary adventure. I MUST HAVE RUBBER PADDED TRACKS!
Thankfully Wikipedia Commons of filled to the brim with high quality photos of any and all military technology, so there's plenty of reference for what the Type-74 padded tracks look like.
Now for the fun part. The Modelkasten tracks come with 8 spare links, just in case you screw up because you obviously will screw up given the number of tiny, fiddly parts involved and the monotony of it all.
Instead of leaving those as spare I used tiny pieces of styrene and lots of Mr. Surfacer to convert them into rubber padded tracks
Here are the finished prototypes.
You'll notice there's only enough for 6 links vs the 8 I started with. That's because I screwed up a few of them. Whoops. Anyway now to throw those prototype into silicone, throw some resin into that silicone and we should eventually make enough new parts to have two full length padded tracks.
Testing out the decent castings with the rest of the assembly and thankfully the plan works. Huzzah.
6 links per casting. 156 links are needed for two tracks....yeah this'll be fun. Especially when you screw up a casting all all the links in it a bubbly and useless.
So from here on out we have one very repetitive task. Thankfully I have a few other things going in parallel to break up the tedium. There's an IPMS meeting on Monday and I'm working on a non-Eva thingi for that. After that I have two Eva related things beside the Type-76 that are just a few pictures away from coming together into lovely posts. Hopefully end of next week will be the start of some regular programming in this thread.
For now things are unavoidably tedious.
I've mentioned before I've gotten some aftermarket tracks for the Type-76 because the stock ones are crummy. The only problem is, only normal tracks are available:
http://www.modelkasten.com/modelkasten/sk/sk-52.html
But, one would assume that any tank stationed in or around a fortress city would be equipped with rubber padded ones to avoid tearing up all those nice road, right? Based on that assumption I decided to go on a completely unnecessary adventure. I MUST HAVE RUBBER PADDED TRACKS!
Thankfully Wikipedia Commons of filled to the brim with high quality photos of any and all military technology, so there's plenty of reference for what the Type-74 padded tracks look like.
Now for the fun part. The Modelkasten tracks come with 8 spare links, just in case you screw up because you obviously will screw up given the number of tiny, fiddly parts involved and the monotony of it all.
Instead of leaving those as spare I used tiny pieces of styrene and lots of Mr. Surfacer to convert them into rubber padded tracks
Here are the finished prototypes.
You'll notice there's only enough for 6 links vs the 8 I started with. That's because I screwed up a few of them. Whoops. Anyway now to throw those prototype into silicone, throw some resin into that silicone and we should eventually make enough new parts to have two full length padded tracks.
Testing out the decent castings with the rest of the assembly and thankfully the plan works. Huzzah.
6 links per casting. 156 links are needed for two tracks....yeah this'll be fun. Especially when you screw up a casting all all the links in it a bubbly and useless.
So from here on out we have one very repetitive task. Thankfully I have a few other things going in parallel to break up the tedium. There's an IPMS meeting on Monday and I'm working on a non-Eva thingi for that. After that I have two Eva related things beside the Type-76 that are just a few pictures away from coming together into lovely posts. Hopefully end of next week will be the start of some regular programming in this thread.
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- Squigsquasher
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- TheAdmiral
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Squigsquasher, the stock tracks don't sag properly and have lots of flash which is much more annoying to trim from rubbery plastic vs billions of solid links.
TheAdmiral, I do actually have a pressure pot, I just can't be arsed to use it every time. The bigger bubble issue so far I've actually tracked down to some moisture contamination in my resin because it's a batch I've open back in March and then it sat around for a while. With every casting it would get worse and worse so I just put that aside and got a new batch which is getting better results.
Yesterday at the local IPMS meet:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/106958307@N03/18195695408/in/album-72157651560830524/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/106958307@N03/18195695328/in/album-72157651560830524/
TheAdmiral, I do actually have a pressure pot, I just can't be arsed to use it every time. The bigger bubble issue so far I've actually tracked down to some moisture contamination in my resin because it's a batch I've open back in March and then it sat around for a while. With every casting it would get worse and worse so I just put that aside and got a new batch which is getting better results.
Yesterday at the local IPMS meet:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/106958307@N03/18195695408/in/album-72157651560830524/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/106958307@N03/18195695328/in/album-72157651560830524/
Last edited by TMBounty_Hunter on Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- TheAdmiral
- Adam
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Your resin is probably still good, even with slight moisture contamination: the use of a pressure tank will get rid of the air bubbles caused by moisture and/or mixing. It's fairly humid in my area and I do a lot of casting, but between the dehumidifier and the pressure tank I don't have any issues.
- TMBounty_Hunter
- Hachigouki is my waifu
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- TMBounty_Hunter
- Hachigouki is my waifu
- Posts: 3230
- Joined: Nov 08, 2008
- Location: Toronto, Canada
So one of the many, many things currently being worked on is Bandai's Wille Evas. I started borking them pretty much as soon as they arrived. There's a minor update on that on page 2 and after that things kinda stopped for them. I picked them up again around early May because I needed an example of a modern kit that was bad and needed modification for a plamo panel at a local con.
It's always interesting picking up something you dropped a year ago. Looking at the work I did plus reexamining the boatloads of reference material available...well last time I said I was getting a bit closer to what was needed. I have no convinced myself that there was lots and lots more needed. Most of that convincing was done within the past week so instead of having an update with zooomg COMPLETED RESULTS I just have more very, very dirty progress.
Fun fact: you can use the rotating view of the 3D model in the making-of feature to make yourself quick cross-eye 3D reference pics
Currently things are being cut up, hollowed out, etc
One piece becomes many, for many reasons, some good...some bad...
There's lots of building stuff out of epoxy putty or extending bits with styrene strips and plate and whatever scrap is handy.
In the end this will hopefully lead to better things.
One things that bothered the hell out of me about this kit is the head. It's not a complete write-off like the 02'gamma head, but there's still lots of really bad annoying things with it like the split down the middle, the big gaps Bandai makes for panel lines and their complete refusal to mold any part that's remotely pointy.
At first I thought let's just fill in the gaps, extend the ears a bit and sharpen them and that might do it.
But then you consult the reference material and it turns out the geometry on the back is just completely wrong
For reference:[url]http://i.imgur.com/ZyKarH6.jpg[/url]
And then we just slap on more putty, more styrene, wait for it all to cure(this is where having multiple projects starts, waiting for stuff to cure suuuuuuuuuuucks), carve it down, sand it, hope it was enough and if not repeat the process until it is
I was really hoping the head would have been done by this week's promised update, but oh well.
Soon.
There's still a lot of fiddling needed.
The cheek needed to be curved in
One side is getting very close to being satisfactory. Once it is the modifications will be made to the other side. That applies to both the head and body. The slightly bigger problem with the body is that some mod need to be figured out before the armor is permanently fixed to the inner blocks, while others are best done only afterwards.
Hopefully more on the results side next week.
Although, depending on how things go another project might get posted instead. Thread potentially entering box of chocolates mode.
It's always interesting picking up something you dropped a year ago. Looking at the work I did plus reexamining the boatloads of reference material available...well last time I said I was getting a bit closer to what was needed. I have no convinced myself that there was lots and lots more needed. Most of that convincing was done within the past week so instead of having an update with zooomg COMPLETED RESULTS I just have more very, very dirty progress.
Fun fact: you can use the rotating view of the 3D model in the making-of feature to make yourself quick cross-eye 3D reference pics
SPOILER: Show
Currently things are being cut up, hollowed out, etc
One piece becomes many, for many reasons, some good...some bad...
There's lots of building stuff out of epoxy putty or extending bits with styrene strips and plate and whatever scrap is handy.
In the end this will hopefully lead to better things.
One things that bothered the hell out of me about this kit is the head. It's not a complete write-off like the 02'gamma head, but there's still lots of really bad annoying things with it like the split down the middle, the big gaps Bandai makes for panel lines and their complete refusal to mold any part that's remotely pointy.
At first I thought let's just fill in the gaps, extend the ears a bit and sharpen them and that might do it.
But then you consult the reference material and it turns out the geometry on the back is just completely wrong
For reference:[url]http://i.imgur.com/ZyKarH6.jpg[/url]
And then we just slap on more putty, more styrene, wait for it all to cure(this is where having multiple projects starts, waiting for stuff to cure suuuuuuuuuuucks), carve it down, sand it, hope it was enough and if not repeat the process until it is
I was really hoping the head would have been done by this week's promised update, but oh well.
Soon.
There's still a lot of fiddling needed.
The cheek needed to be curved in
One side is getting very close to being satisfactory. Once it is the modifications will be made to the other side. That applies to both the head and body. The slightly bigger problem with the body is that some mod need to be figured out before the armor is permanently fixed to the inner blocks, while others are best done only afterwards.
Hopefully more on the results side next week.
Although, depending on how things go another project might get posted instead. Thread potentially entering box of chocolates mode.
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- Sailor Star Dust
- Kept you waiting, huh?
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Bandai's ENT Evas are officially non-scale but roughly on the 1/350 side, I have no figures for that but plenty are available because that's one of the main ship building scales.
I do however have some 1/400 figures to go with Kotobukiya's Evas. I've posted some pics here:
http://forum.evageeks.org/post/737350/Merch-Eva-Figures-Superthread-3/#737350
I do however have some 1/400 figures to go with Kotobukiya's Evas. I've posted some pics here:
http://forum.evageeks.org/post/737350/Merch-Eva-Figures-Superthread-3/#737350
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- Sailor Star Dust
- Kept you waiting, huh?
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Ugh, sup? So World of Warships is incredibly fun. But then they moved from closed beta to open beta and all of the progress was wiped. Now all the exp prices are jacked up and the game is so much more grindy. Combine that with the fact the wipe came first and the regrind began with all the very experienced people, before they opened the gates for the noobs, things got a bit less fun for me. Wait, what's this thread about again? On right, models. Whooooooops.
So 1/400 is not a significantly popular scale for boats. It was at one point, but not anymore. There's very few Eva-relevant ships in this scale to go with Kotobukiya's glorious 1/400 scale ENT Evas. Thankfully, for whatever reason a Korean company called Hapdong made a 1/400 scale BB-63 New Jersey. This is the modernized, Reagan-era version of an Iowa-class battleship. They also make the WWII configuration of the Missouri. The version that appears in Wunder's fleet in Q is for whatever reason the WWII. There's some brief notes about this here: http://forum.evageeks.org/post/738674/Real-world-military-vehicles/#738674
Anyway I did a dry fit of the superstructure just to see how much work this will be and to see how it looks.
I have very little experience with boat kits but overall this one seems decent. Interesting parts breakdown to have lots of molded detail. Will still probably need tons of photoetch.
The biggest problem with it is that the giant, single piece hull is warped.
Apparently this is a common thing with big boat kits and Heller being the worst company at it. Asking around at the IPMS meets the solution to this is just warming up the whole thing under really hot water and warping it back into shape the cooling it back down.
Should be an interesting build either way.
PEW PEW PEW
BBWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWWRWR
The good part about getting the modernized kit is that it comes with two 1/400 scale SH-60P Sea Hawks, which are pretty close to the UH-60 that appear in Q. The more toys the Evas have to play with the better.
World of Warship excuse aside, progress is kinda slow because I keep having these episode of "what the hell am I doing?". Lots of slow but steady progress does get me eventually to a place where I'm happy enough with stuff.
And then I dumb because I work on a part, really like where it's going and think I'm happy
But then you test fit it and realize you should have test fitted earlier.
Gradual fixes do compound eventually.
So 1/400 is not a significantly popular scale for boats. It was at one point, but not anymore. There's very few Eva-relevant ships in this scale to go with Kotobukiya's glorious 1/400 scale ENT Evas. Thankfully, for whatever reason a Korean company called Hapdong made a 1/400 scale BB-63 New Jersey. This is the modernized, Reagan-era version of an Iowa-class battleship. They also make the WWII configuration of the Missouri. The version that appears in Wunder's fleet in Q is for whatever reason the WWII. There's some brief notes about this here: http://forum.evageeks.org/post/738674/Real-world-military-vehicles/#738674
Anyway I did a dry fit of the superstructure just to see how much work this will be and to see how it looks.
I have very little experience with boat kits but overall this one seems decent. Interesting parts breakdown to have lots of molded detail. Will still probably need tons of photoetch.
The biggest problem with it is that the giant, single piece hull is warped.
Apparently this is a common thing with big boat kits and Heller being the worst company at it. Asking around at the IPMS meets the solution to this is just warming up the whole thing under really hot water and warping it back into shape the cooling it back down.
Should be an interesting build either way.
PEW PEW PEW
BBWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWRWWRWR
The good part about getting the modernized kit is that it comes with two 1/400 scale SH-60P Sea Hawks, which are pretty close to the UH-60 that appear in Q. The more toys the Evas have to play with the better.
World of Warship excuse aside, progress is kinda slow because I keep having these episode of "what the hell am I doing?". Lots of slow but steady progress does get me eventually to a place where I'm happy enough with stuff.
And then I dumb because I work on a part, really like where it's going and think I'm happy
But then you test fit it and realize you should have test fitted earlier.
Gradual fixes do compound eventually.
Last edited by TMBounty_Hunter on Sun Jul 19, 2015 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- Shamsiel-kun
- Tokyo-3 Resident
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TMBounty_Hunter wrote:
The biggest problem with it is that the giant, single piece hull is warped.
Apparently this is a common thing with big boat kits and Heller being the worst company at it. Asking around at the IPMS meets the solution to this is just warming up the whole thing under really hot water and warping it back into shape the cooling it back down.
First test that with a piece of sprue, some kits use plastic that get damaged really easily under high(er) temperatures. (had that while trying to manually sand down the ejection pin marks on a Zvezda KV-2 tank - the heat generated by the friction was enough to start melting the plastic )
Another option I've seen is to make a jig for the hull, fit it in there, and then progressively glue the deck to it, in multiple steps, each time clamping it down while drying.
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The styrene for this kit seems nice and high quality, and the hull is also molded very thick in some places. I was first suggested to use just hot tap water to see if that was enough and it's not. Will have to progressively up the temp.
I did contemplate the jig idea but in this case since the deck is only two large pieces I would have to use scrap styrene sheets to built lots of bracing on the inside instead of just using the deck.
Might end up just doing everything. First heat to flex it into a close shape as possible and then clamp it down and brace the life out of it...
Tiny people, tiny chopper...
I did contemplate the jig idea but in this case since the deck is only two large pieces I would have to use scrap styrene sheets to built lots of bracing on the inside instead of just using the deck.
Might end up just doing everything. First heat to flex it into a close shape as possible and then clamp it down and brace the life out of it...
Tiny people, tiny chopper...
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- Shamsiel-kun
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- TMBounty_Hunter
- Hachigouki is my waifu
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The figures are from Plastruct. They make them in various scales of architectural models.
The helicopter will likely get some detail rescribing and maybe photoetch rotors if I can find any.
The helicopter will likely get some detail rescribing and maybe photoetch rotors if I can find any.
"Hooray for other things!" -NAveryW
- PainXIII12
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